The Journeyman Cook

The Northeast Ohio Food Congress

November 7th & 8th, 2008, Hiram College, Hiram, OH

The Northeast Ohio Food Congress invites you to join colleagues from 14 counties throughout the region as we explore the future of Northeast Ohio’s local food system.  Hosted by Hiram College, this two-day networking and educational event will feature contemporary local perspectives, informative presentations, tasty local eats, and inspiring field trips.  The Food Congress brings together urban and rural stakeholders from non-profits, governments, and businesses to identify opportunities for food system development, share best practices, and set goals for the local food economy.  Northeast Ohio is setting national trends in progressive food policy, and The Food Congress is our chance to assess, set priorities, and inspire action within the local food system.

Major Policy Areas of Focus will include:

• Supporting local producers and increasing productive capacity
• Enhancing critical food infrastructure
• Improving access to healthy food by under-served communities
• Strengthening linkages between farm and city
• Forming of county-level Food Policy Councils

Elements of a Sustainable Food System:

• Healthy - part of a balanced diet and not containing harmful biological or chemical contaminants;
• Proximate - originating from the closest practicable source or the minimization of energy use;
• Fairly or cooperatively traded between producers, processors, retailers, and consumers;
• Non-exploiting of employees in the food sector in terms of rights, pay and conditions;
• Environmentally beneficial environmentally or benign in its production (e.g. organic);
• Accessible both in terms of geographic access and affordability;
• High animal welfare standards in both production and transport;
• Socially inclusive of all people in society;
• Encouraging knowledge and understanding of food and food culture.

Should cooking be hard?

I read a recent post on Michael Ruhlman's blog called The Fallacy of the Quick-and-Easy Cookbook that hit home with me on several levels. In it Ruhlman talks about something that is all too prevalent these days: marketers' desire--and if they are to be believed, ours as well--to make everything quicker and easier no matter how much of a disconnect there is between what we are trying to accomplish and the real level of effort required to get us there. We're all about "30-minute" this and "quick-and-easy" that.

The cookbook in question purports to enable home cooks to easily re-create the world-class cuisine of Chef Alain Ducasse. Now, I don't know a thing about Ducasse other than that he owned three three-star Michelin restaurants in three different cities (I don't even know how I know that, it's just in there), but I do know that if I were to attempt to recreate the cuisine of any chef it certainly wouldn't be quick or easy.

Ruhlman writes:

"There’s nothing wrong with easiness—a poached egg with a little shallot-lemon butter and a good piece of toast can truly excellent.  But to try to combine the two ideas, Ducasse and “made effortless” or the “four-star cooking at home” premise—this idea is harmful to home cooks.  It encourages them to believe that every kind of cuisine can and should be made easy for them.  This is simply not true.  Some recipes are easy.  But many recipes are excellent in direct proportion to the labor that goes into them."

That's what makes it challenging and that's what makes it fun. To me cooking is a craft, not a task. It requires technique, nuance, subtlety, knowledge. The only way you get those things is through time and practice. It's part of why I love to cook. Every time I do it I learn something that I can use the next time. 

I aspire to have the skills to pull off many a complex dish and have a somewhat respectable library of cookbooks and books about cooking. One of them is a 1941 edition of The Escoffier Cook Book, A Guide to the FIne art of Cookery, published in France as the Guide Culinaire. It is regarded throughout the world as the bible of culinary art and contains 2,973 recipes, many of which are no more lengthy than this:

1620--Valois Chicken Breasts--Suprêmes de Volaille Valois

Treat the suprêmes à l'anglaise, and cook them in clarified butter (175). Serve them with a garnish of small, pitted olives, stuffed and poached at the last moment. Serve a Valois sauce (63) separately.

Now with a recipe like that, you either know what you're doing or you don't and it happens to be one of the things I like about the Escoffier book. It forces you to reference other elements of the recipe that are defined elsewhere in the book. It requires that you have knowledge and technique of separate components that you can combine to produce a more complex dish. This, to me, is the essence of learning any craft, and it cannot be gained through short cuts.

A jacket note from the Escoffier book sums it up: "The Escoffier Cook Book is not for the beginning amateur in cookery. It is for the discriminating, for the artists in cookery who want the special satisfaction of achieving dinners that are unique and notable for their excellence."

So, should cooking be hard? No, but doing anything well usually means it will be hard at some point. It's something to strive for and I'd rather put in the time and effort to get there than take the quick and easy shortcut. That's what journeymen do!

And above all...Think Chocolate!

Celebrated every year on October 28, National Chocolate Day is another reason to eat chocolate. Like you need one.

Many restaurants are known for their chocolate desserts. One of my favorites was a White Chocolate Gelato with Raspberry Sauce I had at California Pizza Kitchen about ten years ago.

Morton's, the steak house of steak houses, is praised not only for their steaks, but for their Morton's Legendary Hot Chocolate Cake. Morton's serves over thirty thousand pieces of this cake a month around the world. Served with vanilla ice cream, and raspberries, the real prize of this dessert is the soft chocolate center. To get the consistency, you must bake small, individual cakes; for these, you need 6-ounce soufflé dishes or ramekins.

Morton's Legendary Hot Chocolate Cake

(serves 6)
1 1/2 cups unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for the souffle cup
Granulated sugar
12 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
8 large egg yolks, plus 7 large eggs
1 1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
18 fresh raspberries
6 scoops of vanilla ice cream

Procedure
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Generously butter six 6-ounce soufflé cups and sprinkle each with granulated sugar. Tap out the excess sugar.

2. In the top of a double broiler set over barely simmering water, melt the butter and chocolate together. Remove the top of the double broiler pan from the heat.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and set on low speed, beat the egg yolks and eggs for about 2 minutes, or until light and smooth. With the mixer running, pour the melted chocolate into the bowl and mix for about 2 minutes longer.

4. Put the confectioners’ sugar and flour in a fine-mesh sieve and sprinkle into the chocolate mixture. With the mixer on medium speed, beat for 30 seconds, or until well mixed.

5. Pour the batter into the prepared soufflé cups, leaving about ¼ inch of space below the rim. Set the soufflé cups on a baking sheet and bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until puffed and about 1 inch higher than the rim. The centers will be soft but not sticky.

6. Remove the cakes from the oven and immediately invert each onto a serving plate. Remove the cup and garnish each plate with three raspberries and a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

I say you make this anytime you feel like it. Why wait for October 28th!

“My therapist told me the way to achieve true inner peace is to finish what I start. So far today, I have finished 2 bags of M&M's and a chocolate cake. I feel better already.” - Dave Barry

Gone to seed

Image via Wikipedia Tradition is a big part of cooking. Cultures are defined by cuisine, especially where food traditions run deep and food is linked to family, social, and seasonal events.

As we approach Halloween, Fall clam bakes are in full swing (like the one we attended yesterday - thanks Jon and Suzanna!) and pumpkin carving not only creates scary looking jack-o-lanterns, it creates another opportunity to continue or start a tradition of roasting pumpkin seeds. It's easy, fun, and it gives you something to do while the kids are working on their pumpkins.

Pumpkin guts are gooey, but you've got to get in there and get them out anyway, so you might as well get over it and make a tasty snack while you're at it. Just separate the seeds from the pumpkin flesh and strings. To wash the seeds, put them in a bowl of water and rub them between your hands to get the rest of the goo, flesh, and strings off. Put them in a strainer to drain for about 30 minutes, then spread them out on a baking sheet. Let them air dry or use a hair dryer to dry them more quickly.

In the meantime, set your oven to 300 degrees. In a pan big enough to hold your seeds, melt 4 tablespoons of butter and add 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger, 1/2 teaspoon salt,  and 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice. Add the seeds and toss to coat, then spread them in a single layer on the baking sheet. For milder, more traditional flavor, omit the cinnamon, ginger, and allspice. 

Bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until golden brown. Check every few minutes and stir about every 5 minutes. Sprinkle with salt to taste and serve hot or cold. 

Roasting pumpkin seeds can be another family tradition that everyone will look forward to. What kind of Fall food traditions do you enjoy?

Pattypan, pattypan, make me a ...vegetable

Last weekend, the farmer's market yielded some beautiful pattypan squash. I hadn't eaten them before but the way they were described to me, they sounded like something I would like; zucchini-like but with a nuttier flavor. I'm all for nuttier food.

Pattypan are easy to cook. They can be roasted, baked, sauteed, steamed, or stuffed.

I trimmed the ends, cubed them and sauteed them in some butter and garlic until browned, then added a few cubes of frozen stock for a little additional flavoring. A little coriander, a little salt and pepper, a sprinkle of fresh parsley and a dash of soy sauce later and we had ourselves a tasty treat!

Fall Means Food

There are many things I love about Fall, not the least of which is that it ushers in a new season of foods that I love to cook and eat. Fall is a time for oven-baked comfort foods, fruit desserts, pies, soups, and stews, all centered around the terrific array of fresh ingredients in season this time of year.

I had the day to myself, as Renée was doing a show for her Silpada jewelry, and after putting the winter tires on the Mustang, I went out to pick up some fresh onions, garlic, and herbs. I also found some beautiful pattypan squash. The last time Renée and I went to the farmer's market we got some lamb for stew and I decided it was a good day for shepherd's pie and Apple Brown Betty. I love to cook for my wife and this was the perfect day to do it.

Shepherd's Pie is traditionally made on Monday from Sunday's leftovers, but with a simple ingredient list and the likelihood that elaborate Sunday meals are relatively infrequent these days--let alone any leftovers--this is great meal to make anytime.

Here's what you'll need for the filling:

• 1 1/2 pounds lamb (3 pounds of lamb shoulder chops trimmed of bones and excess fat will come close), cut into 1 inch pieces
• 1 1/2 t salt
• 1 t ground black pepper
• 3 t vegetable oil
• 2 medium onions, chopped coarse
• 2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch slices
• 1 medium garlic clove, minced or pressed through a garlic press
• 2 T flour
• 1 T tomato paste
• 2 1/4 c chicken or veal stock
• 1/4 c red wine
• 1 t Worcestershire sauce
• 1 t chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 1 t chopped fresh rosemary leaves
• 1 c frozen peas, thawed

And for the topping:

• 2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2 inch cubes
• 1 t salt
• 6 t unsalted butter
• 3/4 c milk, at room temperature
• 2 large egg yolks
• ground black pepper

I like dishes like this because they combine several cooking methods to make the most of the ingredients. No matter what cut of meat you use, cooked right, it will turn out tender and delicious. This is basically a lamb stew, so the rest of the players are chosen to complement the lamb by adding to the lamb's rich flavor. Thyme and rosemary are strong enough to do the trick, and as always, fresh is better than dried. The carrots, onions, garlic, and peas add layers of sweetness and flavor, with the carrots and peas tossing in a little bright color for a good visual.

Season the lamb with salt and pepper and cook about half at a time in 2 T vegetable oil over medium-high heat until well browned, about 5-6 minutes per batch.  Add another tablespoon of oil before the second batch.

When finished, remove the lamb, reduce the heat to medium and add the carrots and onions and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Then add the garlic, flour, and tomato paste and cook for another minute or so. Don't worry if the mixture seems to too dry, because next you'll whisk in the stock, wine, and Worcestershire sauce. Add the thyme, rosemary, and the browned lamb, bring to a boil, then reduce to low, cover and simmer for 25-30 minutes, or until the lamb is tender.

While the filling is simmering, cover the potatoes with water and add 1/2 t salt. Boil for 15-20 minutes until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife. Drain, then return the potatoes to the pan over low heat. Mash, adding the butter as you go. Lastly, add the milk and egg yolks along with salt and pepper to taste.

Set your oven to 400 degrees and make sure you have a rack placed in the middle position.Stir peas into the lamb mixture, then pour the mixture into 9x13 inch baking dish. You can also use a 10-inch pie plate. Spread the potatoes over the top of the filling with a large spoon, then use a spatula to smooth then out, making sure to seal the edges of the baking dish. Bake until the top is golden brown, about 20-25 minutes. Cool for 5-10 minutes before serving.

What I Liked

I love lamb, so finding fault with any lamb dish is tough for me. And although many cuts of lamb are used in Shepherd's Pie, the stew meat worked well and was just the right size and texture for this dish. The flavors were rich without being overpowering.

Browning the meat first adds lots of flavor and helps the meat finish with just the right tenderness. The fresh onions and garlic, along with fresh herbs make a world of difference in this or any other dish. And the addition of the egg yolks to the potatoes helped give them more shape, texture, and flavor. The homemade veal stock cannot be surpassed by any store bought broth or stock. I am always surprised how it enhances the flavor of whatever I use it in.

For the wine, I chose Coppola Rosso Classic. It's not only inexpensive, it's a great every day wine made from a blend of red grape varieties with flavors of plum, cherries, mocha, and strawberry jam. It's not too dry, not too sweet, and doesn't have too many tannins. It's a wine that agrees with my palate.

What I Would Have Done Differently

The recipes I saw for this version recommended using a 9x13 inch baking dish or a 10-inch pie pan. My choices were limited to a 9x13, a 9-inch pie pan, or an 8x8 baking dish. Had my 9x9 baking dish not broken recently, I think I would have used that. The 9x13 left too much area to cover with the mashed potatoes and too thin a layer of filling in the assembled dish. The result was still very tasty, but with so much area to cover, the potatoes didn't seal well to the edges of the dish allowing the filling to bubble over onto the potatoes.

I was a little heavy handed on the seasoning to taste and the end result was a little peppery. I also think I'd up the tomato paste to 1 1/2 T and the wine to 1/3 c. A small amount of mint might be interesting in the dish as well.

What would you have done differently?

An Apple A Day...Sometimes less

It's a sunny early fall day with just a hint of crispness and the beginnings of familiar fall aromas in the air. This time of year we usually get out to Patterson's Fruit Farm to load up on fresh local apples and cider (the fresh grape juice is unbelievable, too!), but today Renée and Ali made a quick run to pick up some fixin's for chili and grabbed a bag of apples while they were out, just for eating.

As luck would have it, the bagged apples were less than fresh, which is always a bummer, but it wasn't worth returning to the store to get another bag. So, what to do? Applesauce, of course.

Applesauce is one of the easiest things you'll ever make, so don't expect to find much culinary enlightenment on the topic here. 

Pare the apples, put them in a pot with a little water and a dash of salt, and cook them over medium heat until soft.

Use a mixer or hand masher to reduce the pieces to a fine consistency. Add 1/2 to 1 cup of sugar, cook a few minutes longer and remove from the heat. Push through a strainer to remove peel if desired. Serve warm or cold.

 

Storing fresh made applesauce in the freezer is easy. Get some good quality freezer bags, fill them with applesauce and lay flat on a cookie sheet in your freezer. Once they are frozen, rebag them in larger bags, and voila, flat packages to store nicely in your freezer.

You can also take some fresh peeled apples, throw them in a big pot, add the juice from a few lemons, toss and freeze the same way. You'll have perfectly white apples for crisps, crumbles, pies,  or whatever your heart desires anytime of the year.

Other things applesauce:

• Applesauce Polish - Remove scratches and blemishes and restore the shine to your iPod withApplesauce's special two-part system. It can safely and easily restore your iPod's original finish.

• Rain Makes Applesauce - This strange, weird and fascinating work by Julian Scheer and Marvin Bileck dates back to 1964. The book consists of very strange and nonsensical sentences like "Salmon slide down a Hippo's hide, and rain makes applesauce," and "Monkeys mumble in a jelly bean jungle, and rain makes applesauce." The book also has some interesting illustrations.

• Project Applesauce

• Applesauce T-shirts

• Applesauce Inc. - The parent company of Applebee's

• Applesauce Inn B & B - Bellaire, Michigan

• Sir Isaac Newton's Theory of Gravity and the Falling Apple
  

• Did Jimmy Durante coin the phrase pork chops and apple sauce?  No, it was Jimmy Cagney. Years later, it was also the center of a Brady Bunch episode, where Peter Brady imitates Jimmy Cagney after his mom tells Peter what they are having for diner.
  

Oh, and if Ali spies your applesauce...

 This is what happens to it...

I was lucky to get any at all!

No Lipstick On This Pig

"Someone has observed that a pig resembles a saint in that he is more honored after death than during his lifetime." - The Joy of Cooking, 1975

The events of the last several weeks notwithstanding, a pig is a pig, lipstick or not, and personally, I wouldn't have it any other way. Pork is one of the most versatile meats available to man having been domesticated as early as 5000 BC and is the most widely eaten meat in the world. It's said that you can eat everything but the oink.

When I was growing up, my parents used to pickle pigs feet (we didn't call them trotters) and make big batches of sweet or spicy Italian sausage. I also remember going to a farm where livestock was slaughtered, yielding fresh meats, some of which would end up in the big chest freezer down in the basement, lying in wait for use in some future culinary treat.

I've written before about shopping at our local farmer's markets; we're fortunate to have so much good, fresh food available to us in our community. This past weekend was no exception as Renée and I made our way to South Russell to see what could be had. To me, half the fun of going to the farmer's market is seeing what's available and making up menus as you go. You just have to be careful you don't arrive at the market too hungry.

Here's what we brought home:

• Beefsteak tomatoes
• Lamb brats from Great American Lamb Company
• A 3 1/2 pound pork shoulder roast from the Wayne Cattle Company
• Sunshine Marmalade (made from yellow tomatoes) from Herb Thyme
• Some gorgeous red onions
• Fresh picked peaches
• Sweet corn
• Fresh picked sweet basil
• A bone for Harley

I wanted to try something different with the roast and found a recipe for Cuban Roast Pork Shoulder in my Dean & DeLuca cookbook. I adapted the recipe based what I had in the house and my time frame, which brings me to the thing I most enjoy about cooking: you can take a recipe and play with it--kind of like interpreting a piece of music--to make it your own.

Two things make recipes like this so flavorful: the rub and the marinade. The key is to Infuse the roast with flavors that compliment but don't overpower the taste of the meat. Marinating with acid-based liquids can also help to break down the structure of the meat to produce tenderness, but as Shirley Corriher points out, you have to choose your marinade ingredients wisely depending upon what it is you're marinating. This recipe has a terrific mixture of herbs and spices that marry well with the citrus and the garlic to fill your home with delicious aromas and fill your plate with a delectable treat.

Here's the ingredient list:

• 3 T finely minced garlic
• 1 t grated orange zest
• 1 T dried oregano
• 1 T ground cumin
• 1 T salt
• 1 t ground black pepper
• 1 cup thinly sliced onion
• 1/3 cup orange juice
• 1/4 cup lime juice
• 1/2 cup dry sherry

Here's what I modified:

• dry chopped garlic instead of minced garlic
• 2/3 cup orange juice (no lime juice or oranges on hand!)
• dry vermouth instead of sherry

I began by combining the garlic, orange juice, onions, and vermouth and let it sit while I prepared the roast for the oven. Make small slits all over the roast with a paring knife and let it rest to come to room temperature. Combine the oregano, cumin, salt, and black pepper with a little OJ to make a paste. Strain the garlic and onions from the marinade, remove and set aside the onions and add the garlic to the paste, then smear it all over the roast. Next, I placed the pasted roast in a large Ziploc bag along with the onions and the marinade, sealed it and let it sit for about an hour. Normally, you'd want to do this in the refrigerator overnight and baste it several times. We wanted to eat at halftime of the football game, so no overnight for you my little pork shoulder!

After removing the shoulder from the marinade, pat dry and strain the marinade. I set the onions aside for sautéing later. Place in a roasting pan and roast at 325 basting every 30 minutes with the marinade until internal temperature reaches 170 degrees. Cuban roasts are traditionally well-done, so don't worry if it seems to be taking a long time to get to 170. After removing the roast from the oven, be sure to let it rest for 15 minutes before carving. Mine was served with fresh sweet corn, a fresh tomato salad with balsamic vinegar, a little oil, and fresh basil, 7-grain bread for dipping in the salad juices, the sautéed onions, and fresh peach shortcake for dessert. Yum.

By the way, the crusty texture you see in the pic is from the garlic; they were good sized bits, but weren't overpowering. Even though I didn't have time to marinate the roast the way I would have liked, it still turned out juicy, nicely flavored from the paste while still tasting like good pork, and was delicious cold on sandwiches the next day.

No lipstick needed!

    

Next to fresh tomatoes, fresh peaches are something I could eat every day.

pig photo by Brent and MariLynn

A Guide to Ethical, Sustainable Seafood

We are changing the the ecosystem of our planet through our behavior, but it's not too late to make some changes. This from a Bennet Gordon UtneCast at Utne Reader:

"It’s difficult to tell the difference between ethical, sustainable seafood and the environmentally destructive fish you find on many menus. The seafood industry wreaks havoc on the environment, using massive ocean trawlers that destroy ancient habitats and kill massive amounts of fish unnecessarily. In the September-October issue of Utne Reader, Taras Grescoe, author of the book Bottomfeeder, helps readers navigate the confusing world of seafood and find delicious fish that can be eaten with a clear conscience.

For the latest episode of the UtneCast, I talked with Grescoe about the ways that everyone can enjoy healthy, sustainable seafood without destroying the environment.

You can listen to the interview below, or to subscribe to the UtneCast for free through iTunes, click here."

The Omnivore's Hundred

The Very Good Taste Omnivore’s Hundred

1) Copy this list into your blog or journal, including these instructions.
2) Bold all the items you’ve eaten.
3) Cross out any items that you would never consider eating.
4) Optional extra: Post a comment here at www.verygoodtaste.co.uk linking to your results.

1. Venison
2. Nettle tea
3. Huevos rancheros
4. Steak tartare
5. Crocodile
6. Black pudding
7. Cheese fondue
8. Carp
9. Borscht
10. Baba ghanoush
11. Calamari
12. Pho
13. PB&J sandwich
14. Aloo gobi
15. Hot dog from a street cart
16. Epoisses
17. Black truffle
18. Fruit wine made from something other than grapes
19. Steamed pork buns
20. Pistachio ice cream
21. Heirloom tomatoes
22. Fresh wild berries
23. Foie gras
24. Rice and beans
25. Brawn, or head cheese
26. Raw Scotch Bonnet pepper
27. Dulce de leche
28. Oysters
29. Baklava
30. Bagna cauda
31. Wasabi peas
32. Clam chowder in a sourdough bowl
33. Salted lassi
34. Sauerkraut
35. Root beer float
36. Cognac with a fat cigar
37. Clotted cream tea
38. Vodka jelly/Jell-O
39. Gumbo
40. Oxtail
41. Curried goat
42. Whole insects
43. Phaal
44. Goat’s milk
45. Malt whisky from a bottle worth £60/$120 or more
46. Fugu
47. Chicken tikka masala
48. Eel
49. Krispy Kreme original glazed doughnut
50. Sea urchin
51. Prickly pear
52. Umeboshi
53. Abalone
54. Paneer
55. McDonald’s Big Mac Meal - not anymore!
56. Spaetzle
57. Dirty gin martini
58. Beer above 8% ABV
59. Poutine
60. Carob chips
61. S’mores
62. Sweetbreads
63. Kaolin
64. Currywurst
65. Durian
66. Frogs’ legs
67. Beignets, churros, elephant ears or funnel cake
68. Haggis
69. Fried plantain
70. Chitterlings, or andouillette
71. Gazpacho
72. Caviar and blini
73. Louche absinthe
74. Gjetost, or brunost
75. Roadkill - deer hit by a car, yes. Scraped from the pavement, no.
76. Baijiu
77. Hostess Fruit Pie
78. Snail
79. Lapsang souchong
80. Bellini
81. Tom yum
82. Eggs Benedict
83. Pocky
84. Tasting menu at a three-Michelin-star restaurant.
85. Kobe beef
86. Hare
87. Goulash
88. Flowers
89. Horse - not that I know of
90. Criollo chocolate
91. Spam
92. Soft shell crab
93. Rose harissa
94. Catfish
95. Mole poblano
96. Bagel and lox
97. Lobster Thermidor
98. Polenta
99. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee
100. Snake

As you can see from my list, there's not a lot I won't eat. I look at it as an adventure; it's like reading a book about exotic new lands, only better.